November 13 (Sunday)
Place: Sao Paolo
What to do: Enjoy the rainy day and listen to some music
Accommodation: Staying with Simoni’s friends Daniela and Rafaela
I drink a lot of coffee. But I don’t like to drink just coffee. I used to be addicted to coffee with milk until the day which changed my coffee love for before and after.
I was living in Milan with a roommate who was a model. She didn’t eat anything but drank a lot of coffee with… lemon. What?
Yes, this was also my first expression until I tried it and my love relationship with coffee with milk was gone forever. Since that I’m impressing people with my addiction. And as always cheese, ham and bread are the most common Brazilian breakfast ingredients.
Since I’m in Sao Paulo the forecast says it will be raining all the day, but the prediction comes just in 6pm. People from Sao Paulo say it must rain at 6pm every day, you van even check you time on this. But today is the first time the forecast is right and it really rains the whole day.
Every Sunday they close Avenida Paulista for vehicles and put varieties of flee, art, second-hand markets and food stalls along the street.
We decided to start our walk from Trianon station. By coincidence exactly today is has happened a concert of a famous Brazilian singer Maria Gadú just in front of this metro station.
It’s been 3.5 months since I’m in Brazil and I was involved in dance and music parties many times even if I didn’t try to. Music in Brazil is around you and you can’t avoid it.
My first favorite song is 1% as it was the most popular sertanejo song in Rio and it would always remind me my life there.
My second favorite song is Malandramente – because I am Malandramente sometimes. You should go to the bottom of the Day 4 for the better understanding what I’m talking about. After you read it, come back here and listen to this song. But you shouldn’t understand the words, cause I still put in them a little bit different meaning.
Today’s singer at the concert looked pretty famous as all the people were singing her songs and knew the lyrics. Daniela asked me why I wasn’t as happy as others. The reality is that I didn’t have any feelings to these songs. They were the songs I heard the first time in my life and I would never remember even the melody by evening. And for the rest of the people these were the songs saved in their hears since ever. I was pretty bored until the very last song when from the first notes I felt the slight shaking inside my body because I knew it. And this is the third song which would stay inside me forever as Rio 2016 adventure.
Under the roof of Museu de Arte there is a flea market every Sunday where you can find variety of the old stuff like in any other market this type.
If you continue walking along avenida Paulista you’ll find Itaú Cultural museum. At the ground there is a permanent exhibition of Cartola – one of the first singers and composes of samba, who started singing in bars in late 1920s. All of his songs are about old Sao Paulo and broken hearts. Everybody had the heart broken at least once in a life, so people find his songs very personal. An unofficial anthems of samba is the song dedicated to his daughter which every Brazilian knows.
Brazil is the first far away country which reminds me the Soviet Union so much. If you listen to Cartola, turn the volume down, close your eyes and you can think you are listening the singing of Marks Bernes or Leonid Utyosov who were living at the same years on the other side of the planet.
I’ve learned a lot about Brazilian history in a last 5 days but I still haven’t found the exact answer: why do these two countries are so far from each other but have so many similarities in the 20th century and nowadays. I can explain the similar songs style and the same movements in Passinho dance as in the dances of Russian sailors. But I couldn’t explain the mental connections until I found an article in Lonly Planet which says that it’s generally believed that the early inhabitants of the Americas arrived from Siberia in waves between about 60,000 and 8000 BC. This can explain everything.
On the forth floor of the same building we found a collection of historical documentary drawings and paintings collected by Roberto Setubal. Few day ago we went to Museu Anchieta where I first found a book of drawings by French artist Jean Batist Debret and was impressed with this huge amount of drawings he made about Brazilian daily life and faces of his days. And today we saw the original paintings.
Overall the exhibition is a complete material patrimony of original documents of the history of Brazil which you can read from the first person, but not by the book re-written by someone.
I always thought about Brazil as a hot country. I’ve been here since July and this is the average weather and temperature. There were few hot days in September and October, but most of the time it’s: jeans, jacket, snickers and umbrella.